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Grüner Veltliner Mukenthal 2011

Ein neuer Grüner Veltliner-Weingarten im Sortiment von Jutta Ambrositsch: Ein steiniger Hang hinunter zum Schreiberbach, der Grinzing und den Nussberg voneinander trennt, karger Boden, alte Stöcke, tief verwurzelt. Das Ergebnis war ein wenig erstaunlich, denn so ein Wein wurde aus diesem Weingarten noch nie gekeltert - höchste Reife im Auslese-Bereich, reichlich Restsüße, und dennoch präsentiert sich dieser Wein trotz all seiner Kraft verführerisch und schmeichelnd, mit dem Aroma frisch gequetschter Trauben, mit Fülle und Charme - und extrem lang. Ein Wein, der keine Fragen offen lässt. Oder aber viele. Säure: 5 g/l Alc.: 12,5% Vol. Restzucker: 27 g/l
Auch im 1,5 Liter Format erhältlich

 

 

2011 Jutta Ambrositsch Gruner Veltliner Mukenthal
A Gruner Veltliner Medium Dry White Table wine from Vienna, Austria,

 

Review by David Schildknecht
WA # , #212 (Apr 2014)

Rating: 87
Drink 2014 - 2016
Cost: $55

 

An unapologetically if subtly sweet Auslese in style, the Ambrositsch 2011 Gruner Veltliner Muckenthal was, for that reason, not released until after the majority of her wines of the vintage (and given Viennese wine lovers’ proclivities might well take a bit longer to sell-out than other Ambrositsch wines). “It was our first harvest of this parcel,” notes the author, “and we really didn’t know what to expect; but we certainly didn’t expect them to get this ripe.” Harvest was in late October, but for the 2012, Ambrositsch made her move early in that month to achieve dry finishing results without excessive alcohol. Honey–tinged musk melon and winter squash inform a creamy and richly ripe mid-palate, with hints of varietally typical herbal notes coming out in the finish. The sweetness here is not at all awkward, but the wine wants for a bit more finishing definition, clarity, and sheer juiciness. You might want to revisit it in 2015 or 2016 and I suspect that it won’t prove worth holding for significantly longer. Jutta Kalchbrenner (nee Ambrositsch) – for more about whom, and about whose vineyards, consult my issue 197 report – has expanded her acreage and range of bottlings, and was very happy after devastating hail in 2009 and 2011 and a vintage-typically tiny crop in 2010, to have much more wine to sell from vintage 2012 than she ever has before. Oenophiles not yet familiar with her work should take advantage of that relative abundance to experience the offerings of this highly talented and dedicated young graphic artist-turned vintner. (Having suggested this, I myself missed out on some of Ambrositsch’s 2012s due to their having been totally sold-out – and, knowing the Viennese, no doubt largely drunk-up – by the time I got ‘round to visiting her to taste wines of that vintage.) More generous yields but also conscientiously earlier picking have contributed to wines of surprising alcoholic levity by contemporary Viennese standards, yet by no means deficient in ripe – indeed, often scintillating – flavors. Having little patience with the regulations governing the new DAC Wiener Gemischter Satz – with whose provisions for blending across mono-cepage vineyards she disagrees – Ambrositsch signaled to me her intention to release her field-blended 2013s as officially merely Landwein. Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

 

 
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Grüner Veltliner "Mukenthal" 2011
Jutta Ambrositschs unkonventionelle Interpretation des altehrwürdigen Mukenthals. Höchste Reife in verführerischster Ausprägung.